Arroqueño 2020 | Hermogenes Vásquez + Paula Aquino Sánchez | Fall/Winter 2020 Release | ARQHMG2004 | 68 bottles
Available through Mezcal Brothers in France
Described by Gentry as a “polymorphic species,“ the botanist observed that the Agave americana “broadens species limits much beyond the horticultural variety described by Linnaeus and subsequent students.” Endemic to the Americas, this species is found throughout the world. In Miahuatlán, there appears to be present two subspecies, each with an abundance of morphological expressions, and each with its own local nomenclature. Some have been historically preferred for pulque production, others for mezcal, but all prized as a source of for natural fiber. During his time in Oaxaca in the 1960’s, Gentry noted that the once cherished, but slow- growing various Agave americana cultivars were beginning to be displaced by A. angustifolia- the Espadín. This trend continued through the 80’s and 90’s, exacerbated by the wholesaling of genetically diverse Oaxacan agave plantations to Jalisco, a situation in which many magueyeros decided to abandon the slow- maturing A. americana types in favor of the Espadin, which would allow the magueyero to harvest nearly twice the amount of agave mass and profit during the same time period. Prices for agave were flat across the board, so the farmer had great incentive to plant and grow the new Espadín.
Over the last decade or so, many communities and families have focused their cultivation efforts on the revitalization of rare agaves which are now being reproduced and cultivated from both seed and clone. The conservation of these often hyper-regional magueyes is important in the maintenance of healthy ecosystems, but for many, it is also an attempt to preserve the gusto histórico of local flavors and recipes. In the area around San Luis Amatlán there still exists a multitude of different A. americana expressions such as Arroqueño, Sierrudo, Mexicano, Pulquero Penca Larga, Pulque Cenizo, Pulque Chino (not actually a “true” pulquero), Belato, del Rayo, Lizo, Blanco, and Azulín.
Because of how scarce this agave has become in the region since the 80s, this is the first 100% Arroqueño batch that Hermogenes and Paula have made in their lifetime. They used 9 Arroqueño piñas purchased from a local friend in a nearby community which yielded 60 liters of this incredible spirit.